Friday, July 15, 2011
This tutorial guides you through using Photomatix Pro 3.1 to merge photos taken at different exposures into one HDR (High Dynamic Range) image. Utilizing the powerful tone mapping features in this software provides a unique control over your HDR images.
Preparing to Merge
After launching the software, you’ll click on the Generate HDR Image button on the pane to the left. Then, you’ll need to select the source images that you’ll be merging into one HDR photo. You can browse for these images, but I find it easier just to drag and drop the three photos from Finder into the box (If you’re using a Mac). Click OK. The photos above are the ones that we will be merging. As you can see, one is properly exposed, one is overexposed, and the other is underexposed.
When the Options window appears, Align Source Images is already checked by default, correcting horizontal and vertical shifts. Usually it makes sense to leave these at the default. If I have an image that has very distinct shapes and features, I will change it to align the source images by matching features.
If you’ve taken a photo where there was some movement in the image, HDR can be tricky because the object will take on a “ghost” effect. Ghosting artifacts occurs most commonly with people, animals, nature (trees, clouds, water), and other objects that can blow in the wind or move. Luckily, Photomatix Pro offers a feature in their Options page to Attempt to Reduce Ghosting Artifacts which can significantly help stabilize those images and reduce that effect.
Three Images
Options
Tone Mapping
Where Photomatix Pro 3 really begins to shine (like its previous versions) is when it comes to tone mapping. The tone mapping features allow the user to really customize the HDR image in order to recreate the correct tones that match the original lighting of the situation or give a surreal effect.
In this image, I chose to lower the strength and color saturation a bit. I also made sure that light smoothing was set to high. Spend some time tweaking these images. If you mess something up, there is an undo/redo button at the bottom of the tone mapping palette.
When you have the image the way you want it, click Process. Photomatix took only 7 seconds to process the tone mapping changes that I made.
Working in Photomatix
Finishing Up
Photomatix Pro 3 only has a few basic editing tools, and they are not the easiest to use. Even the simplest of tasks, such as cropping, is more complicated than necessary, having to use the CTRL key while you’re dragging. So, I leave any editing that I need to do for Photoshop CS4 or Aperture 2.1.
When you have the photo the way that you want it, be sure to save it by clicking File and Save As and saving it as either a JPEG or a 16 bit TIFF. Usually, I will save it as a JPEG if I’m using it on the computer (4.7MB), and I’ll use TIFF if I’m going to be printing the image (45.9MB). You can see that there is an enormous difference in size between the two file types. When you are saving the photo, there is a checkbox below the format that you can click to launch Photoshop and save the image in that program. Doing this can increase the compatibility of the file.
Below is the final product of our merged photos.
Finished HDR Image
Practice
Friday, July 15, 2011 by WoNG jOwO · 0
Black and white photography is gaining popularity in the portrait market. Learn some photography techniques for creating black and white fine art portraits.
Black and White Fine Art Photography
The world in black and white is more abstract. When looking at the subject and surroundings, focus on the geometric elements between the subject and with the subject. These are great elements in an image or portrait.
Figures 1 and 2
Tips for Shooting Black and White Portraits
For black and white portraits, the lighting needs to be used differently to create a dramatic mood to the portrait. The mid tones will give that soft ethereal feel, the blacks more drama and the whites that glowing softness on the edges. Each portrait will use light differently. The important thing in black and white portrait photography is to evaluate the subject and decide what type of lighting will best describe their personality. For instance, with babies, soft white light will accentuate the softness of the babies' skin and newness of life. Babies are soft, therefore the light should be soft. With wizened old men, more drama and contrast to show the lines of knowledge that cross their brows from years of learning.
Using Highlights
By using highlights, skin can be softened and smoothed. With the key light, use a higher setting to blow out some of the brighter sections of skin on the forehead, cheeks and chin. This will soften the areas and give a glowing look. (Note: This does not work well in color) In the studio, you can set all the highlight points. If shooting outside, look for light falling though trees as a highlight spot. Position the subject so the light falls directly on specific points on the face or cheek. (See figures 3 & 4)
Find Sharp Contrasting Light
In the studio, light can be moved to create contrast and shadow depth. When shooting outdoors, look for contrasting light in shadowy areas with bits of sunshine seeping through the shadows. This will give the effect of spots. Use direct sun to sidelight or for profile shots. Separating the whites and blacks with a little mid-tone gray is great for creating intensity and drama.(Figures 5 & 8)
Soft Light
For subjects that need a softer effect or dream like quality, use soft boxes for all lighting. By using light in the mid-tone range, this will cut down on contrast and shadow detail. Using soft boxes and reflectors to cut down on contrast can soften the face and reduce the appearance of lines. Combine the use of highlighting and using soft light to reduce shadow detail and the images can be amazing. This softens the appearance, but with just enough contrast to define the face. (Figures 6 & 7)
For contrast or highlights, clothing will be important in the overall look. Stay away from white clothing. When looking for drama with lots of black area, browns and black shirts are great. Medium gray, blues, purples and rich greens are great for mid tone color that separates the skin from the clothing. These colors are also good for soft portraits. For more drama black, midnight blues, browns and reds work best. For light colors and highlights light blues and any pastels will work. You can always work with the clothing tones in the imaging process also. Texture is always a great thing to add to any portrait so look for clothing with texture or weaves. Make up needs to be suited to the image. Dark lipsticks will turn the lips an unnatural shade in black and white portraits. Gloss or flat lipsticks will give different effects. For women, mascara, eye shadow and blush are important to create texture and tone on the skin.
Camera Settings
Last but not least, the photographer will need to decide whether to shoot in black and white and avoid the conversion process or to shoot in color. If shooting in color, setting the camera to RAW mode is best. This will record all the information without losing the detail in the highlights. Just a note, in digital when the camera is set to shoot in black and white, the camera will throw away some data.
Summary
- With black and white portraits just remember to suit the light to the subject.
- Use highlights to soften and define skin texture.
- Create richness by using contrast and enhancing the black tones
- Use contrast by sharp lighting and strong shadows to create drama and interest.
- Use soft lighting and mid-tone grays for a soft feel to your portrait
by WoNG jOwO · 0
Windows 7 comes with a free photo editing program: Windows Media Center. This program allows you to perform simple edits to your images, including cropping and contrast correction. Learn how to use this program in this Windows 7 tutorial.
Windows 7 Capabilities
Now that you know what you can do with this program, you probably want to know how to edit photos in Windows 7. It’s a fairly easy process. Simply open up the Windows Media Center and your image, and then use the following steps to perform edits to your images.
Red Eye and Cropping
- Go to the Start screen, and then go to Pictures + Videos.
- Open up the Picture Library.

- Right-click on the picture that you need to change.
- In the dropdown menu, select Picture Details.
- Go to Touch Up and then Red Eye.
- Select Save, and Windows Media Center will correct the red eye problem in the image.
You can do this in the Windows Media Center. Navigate to the image, and right-click on it. Go to Picture Details, and select Rotate.
The image rotates at 90 degree angles. You can only rotate the image 90 degrees at a time and not in incremental degrees. If your image is completely upside down, you may have to click the button more than once until it’s in the correct position.
If you over-rotate the image, simply keep hitting the rotate button until it is back in the correct position.
If you do need to crop an image, go to the Touch Up menu, and select Crop. With this tool, you can change the size, orientation and location of the image. When you are done, simply hit Save to save all of your changes.
Fixing Contrast
The program will then apply a simple contrast correction to the image. If your image still doesn’t look right, you can either undo the change, or save the current change under a different name. If the contrast correction makes the image look worse, then you really want to use another program.
Editing on the Slideshow and Printing
Windows 7 Windows Media Center allows you to edit your images while you are watching them on a slideshow. To do this, follow the below steps:- Go to the Start screen, and select Pictures + Video.
- Open up the Picture Library.
- Find the picture that you want to edit, and click on it. It should now fill up the screen.
- Right-click on the image, and select the Picture Details option.
- Make the changes that you need to make to the image.
- Select Play Slide Show to start the slideshow again.
- Right-click on the image to bring up the Picture Details menu.
- In this menu, select Print to bring up the print picture dialog menu.
- Select your printer and printer options.
- Press Print to start printing your picture.
Now, you know how to edit photos in Windows 7. The Windows Media Center only allows you to perform simple edits. If you need advanced edits, you can use other free programs like GIMP or online editors like Photobucket and Picnik. While the Windows Media Center isn’t a full editor, it’s great for quick edits on your Windows 7 PC.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
This article explains how to improve contrast in an image by using the Levels tool in Adobe Photoshop.
Levels Tool
Levels is a simple post processing tool available in most photo editing software, used to improve contrast in an image. A dull picture can be transformed into a colorful image in no time by making minor adjustments with Levels tool. In photoshop, you can open Levels tool from the menu Image >> Adjustments >> Levels or by the shortcut key Ctrl+L. In Gimp, Levels tool can be found at Colors >> Levels.
First, let's open the target image in Photoshop. For this exercise, I am using this picture of a lake surface shown below.
Next, open the Levels tool. As shown below, the Levels tool displays the histogram for the image, with three sliders at the bottom. Let's look at each of these sliders and adjust them.

Adjusting the Black Point
In the above histogram, move the black point to the right until the point where the graph starts rising. Preview the change in the image and see that it gets darker.

Adjusting the White Point
Move the slider to the left close to the point where the graph starts rising, as shown in the picture below. See that the image gets brighter.
Adjusting the mid-tones
In this picture, I have moved the slider to the right.
This concludes adjusting the levels. Below is the final image after adjusting all three sliders. Compare this with the original image and see the evident change in contrast.
Conclusion
For most images, it is recommended to adjust Black Point and White Point until the point where the graph starts rising. However, this is more of a guideline than a rule. Use the preview and play with the sliders to get best results for each image.
If you move the black point to an extent that some pixels fall to the left of the black point, all these pixels will be made pure black(brightness zero). Similarly, when you move the white point, any pixels to the right of the white point will be made pure white. The color information in these pixels will be lost. To ensure that no color information is lost, hold the Alt key when you move the black slider or white slider. Any colors that get clipped will start appearing on the screen.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
This article helps photographers understand how a histogram can be interpreted and used when taking pictures.
Introduction
In the days of film, professional photographers spent a lot of time understanding how their camera's metering system behaved and how they should expose the images when taking pictures. There was no instant feedback system, and there was plenty of room for exposure errors. Digital photography changed all that, making it possible to instantly review the image and take another shot if any corrections are required.
While playback on the LCD gives a fair idea of how an image is exposed, histogram provides a more accurate feedback, helping the photographers to take properly exposed pictures
.
What is a Histogram?
How to see and interpret histograms?
For a dark or under-exposed image, the histogram is usually taller at the left side of the graph. A histogram of a bright image is taller on the right side. The images below demonstrate interpretation of a histogram. Here, a sample subject is shot three times, each time with a different exposure. Along with each image is the histogram corresponding to it.
The above image was under-exposed. As you can see, the graph is taller on the left, which indicates that most of the pixels are on the darker side.
This image was properly exposed. You can see more pixels towards the center of the graph. The image seen below was over-exposed, which has more pixels concentrated to the right side of the graph.
This way, a graphical representation of brightness helps to understand if the image is exposed properly.
How to use it when taking pictures?
Note that a histogram with a lot of bright or dark pixels may not always mean that there is an exposure error. It also depends on the subject you are shooting. For example, if you are shooting in a place where there is a lot of snow, it is natural that most of pixels are bright. Similarly, it is normal to have many dark pixels if you are shooting stars in the night sky.
Another important use of histograms is to check if an image has burnt pixels. The presence of brightest pixels (brightness level 255) in an image often means that some part of the image is blown out to pure white because of over-exposure. Details of such sections of the image are permanently lost and cannot be recovered. Most cameras indicate such burnt parts of the image by blinking those sections on the display. If you see any blinking parts in an image, it normally means that the image is over-exposed, and it is time to adjust the exposure.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
Here are some photo restoration tips and tricks that will teach you how to fix a creased photograph.
Creased Photos
Before & After
In the sample photo here, you see what the original photo looked like before and how it appeared after I removed the creases. I zoomed in a little on one corner to show detail so we could focus on one area for the purposes of this article. Since this is a basic tutorial, I want to stick to basic patterns and colors. Once you get the hang of that, you can move on to more complex restoration like rebuilding textures, people's faces, and so on.The general idea here is to find the 'good spots' in a damaged photo and make copies of those sections, then paste them over the 'bad spots' in order to cover up blemishes like creases and tears. It's a painstaking process that can't be done all at once unless the photo has one minor issue. In the next section, we'll go over all the steps required to take the original photo and clean it up.
Photo Restoration
Since this photo has a lighter color border, we will start by cleaning up that outer border. This will need to be done for both the top and the sides.
- Select a small portion of the border that is clean, then copy it and paste as a new layer.
- Drag that new layer over part of the border that you want to fix. Keep pasting new layers until you get it all covered.
- Repeat the same process for the left side.
- Use both top and side pieces to rebuild the corner, then take a sliver of the light color area to fill in the upper right corner.
- Use the Lasso tool to select the cleanest chunk of the middle section, then copy and paste it as a new layer.
- Drag that new layer over the creased area, and keep doing so until it is covered.
- Once you got the crease covered, keep filling in the space until everything is clean.
Screenshots
by WoNG jOwO · 0
You can take photographs of normal objects and then string these objects together to create words. Alphabet pictures are fun and fairly easy to do. All you need is a good imagination and a willingness to look at objects in out of the norm ways.
Easy as ABC
This type of photography is very creative and fun to do. It doesn’t matter what you use to create your letters, but the more creative you get, the more interesting the shot is. While you can simply put together a series of alphabet blocks to create your shot, you may have more fun finding a curved blade of glass that looks like a C.
Easy A
Be Adventurous
If you are more adventurous, then grab your camera, and go for a stroll. You can see letters in nearly anything. The goal is to find real objects that really look like a letter. A popular example is to use the center frame and a section of a stained glass window to create an A. Other photographers use the foam of the sea.As the tides rush ashore, the foam gets caught on the beach, producing different shapes. Oftentimes, these shapes look exactly like letters. If that doesn’t work, then find shells, which also come in different shapes and sizes.
Don’t just look at items straight on. Turn your camera on its side or upside down, and take the shot. Really examine the world around you. While it may not look like a B from one angle, an entranceway may make the letter if your camera is turned to the side. The whole point of this photography is to get creative so be sure to have a lot of fun while you are working.
Alphabet Soup
are taking your shot.A white bowl works great against the tomato color of the soup. Also, have a neutral background for the bowl, maybe black or a checkered red and white tablecloth to create a homey feel. Take your shots as quickly as possible as the alphabets in the soup are going to quickly want to move on.
Finishing Touches
A more interesting look, however, is to keep the images on their respective canvases. Then use a larger canvas and arrange the images on this canvas so that they make the word. You don’t, however, have to keep them in a straight line. Curve the images, or make a jagged or zigzag line out of the images. The more creative that you can get the better the image is going to look. Just remember that your audience still has to be able to read the word so don’t get so creative that the meaning is lost to others.
If the images are quite different, consider changing your images into black and white. Where a landscape image might clash with a cityscape in color, they’ll look perfectly natural together if you convert the images into monochrome. You can also add a filter to the entire canvas to ensure that the images flow into one another.
Look at the edges of the image, and consider feathering extremely harsh images. This will ensure that the photographs easily blend together. Think about your background. Will your images look better with just a plain background, or could you add another photograph with scenery or people to enhance the overall effect?
Alphabet photography is fun and very rewarding. You’ll start seeing letters in everything after a little while, so always have your camera with you. Many photographers have converted this type of photography into lucrative businesses, especially at street fairs or events. Event-goers often like picking up souvenirs with their names on them. This type of photography offers you a great opportunity to turn your passion into a full-time business.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
Wedding and event photography is a lucrative business for photographers. But, you must know how to correctly take these photographs. Learn more in this digital photography tutorial.
Wedding and Event Photography Overview
Find Out What the Client Wants
When you are hired for any type of event, always talk to your client. Learn what they want you to capture and how they want you to capture it (style). While event photographs often look like they are just capturing random things, usually the client wants specific items photographed. For a wedding, that would include the bride walking down the aisle, the exchange of rings, etc. For a regular event, that may be the speakers, certain booths or attendees.Once you figure out what your client wants, come up with a list of must-have photographs. You’ll be taking a lot more than these. But, it’s good to tick off the ones that your client is definitely expecting.
Preparation and Establishing Shots
Always take a few shots that show what the event is about. For example, at a wedding, take a few pictures of the church or the scenic area if it’s an outside wedding. For a regular event, this could include booths, stages, banners etc. The goal of these photos is just to let your audience know what’s going on.
Equipment and Settings
Take Quality Shots
Don’t stick to staged shots. They’re boring after a while. Find people talking, dancing, asking questions, etc. Candid shots show more of the story than posed photographs. Shoot from the hip so people don’t know that you are photographing them.
Post Production
Don’t throw away photos that you consider bad. Leave the client see them. What you consider junk, they may consider a perfect photograph.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Photography Tips for Point and Shoot Digital Cameras. Simple tips and techniques for taking pictures with a point-and-shoot digital camera. ... Camera reviews, digital camera reviews, and photography community. Photography Tips For Point And Shoot Digital Cameras - point shoot tips portraits sports action point and shoot digital cameras. If you are using a digital point and shoot camera you may have something called ... Illustration Images for Point and Shoot Camera Tips. Photography. Photography Tips for Beginners With Point and Shoot Camera. in Photography,Tips and Tricks. So you just bought your first digital camera.
Much has been written on the topic of Macro photography for those photographers fortunate enough to own a DSLR with macro lenses – but what about if you own a compact point and shoot camera? Can you get great macro shots too?
While the results achievable with a point and shoot camera in macro mode probably won’t compare with a DSLR with a purpose built macro lens I’ve still seen some remarkably good shots with compact cameras (all three shots in this post were taken with compact cameras). Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of yours:
Select Macro Mode
this is a fairly obvious first step but I’m always surprised by how many digital camera owners haven’t explored the shooting modes that their camera has. Macro mode is generally symbolized with a little flower and when selected it will tell your camera that you want to focus on a subject closer to your lens than normal (the minimum distance allowed will vary from camera to camera – consult your instruction manual to find yours). Macro mode will also usually tell your camera to choose a large aperture so that your subject is in focus but the background is not.
Use a Tripod
in macro photography a tripod can be particularly useful, even if you’re just shooting with a compact camera. Keeping your camera still not only improves your shots (getting rid of camera shake) but it allows you to play around with different settings without losing your composition.
Composition
remember some of the basic rules of composition like the Rule of Thirds. Make sure your image has a main point of interest and place that focal point in a smart position in your image in order to draw the eye of your viewer. Try to select a non cluttered or simple background for your main subject so as it doesn’t compete with it visually.
in many macro shots having some artificial light is important. The challenge with compact cameras is that most give you limited control of your flash. As a result choosing a good time of day when there is plenty of available light is probably your best bet. If you do need more light check to see if your camera allows you to pull back the level that your flash fires at. Alternatively you might like to try diffusing it in some way (tissue paper or cellotape over the flash for example). Another option might be to use some other source of artificial light or to invest in a reflector to help make the most of available light. Experiment with different methods of lighting your subject.
Take Your Shot
once you have your shot lined up and in focus take your shot. Make sure once you’ve taken it to take a good look at it on your LCD, zooming in to make sure that your focusing is sharp. Try shooting at slightly different apertures, with different compositions and focusing on different points of your subject to see what works best.
Macro Lens Attachments
some compact cameras actually have accessories available to help with macro/close up photography. These will enable you to enlarge your subject and/or decrease your minimum focal length. These might be worth investing in if you intend on doing a lot of macro work.
Self Timer
(this point was added as a result of comments below – thanks team!) when using my DSLR for Macro work I tend to use a shutter cable release and tripod to make sure my shots are completely still (to eliminate the small amount of camera shake from pressing the shutter). Most compact cameras don’t have cable releases but a simple way around this is to use your camera’s self timer on it’s shortest time setting which will similarly mean you have no movement of your camera when taking your shot (if you’re taking notice of the ‘use a tripod’ tip above).
PS: I’ve used the term ‘macro photography fairly loosely here. Technically ‘macro photography’ is actually when you produce an image where your subject is captured on your image sensor at life size (or bigger) with a 1:1 ratio.
In the case of most (all?) compact cameras this is not achieved and in fact ‘close up’ photography would be a better description. However as most manufacturers call their close up mode ‘macro mode’ I’ve used the term for the purposes of this article.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011 by WoNG jOwO · 0
13 Lessons to Teach Your Child About Digital Photography. 13 Lessons To Teach Your Child About Digital Photography. Today while sorting through some old boxes I found a photo album filled with the first ever photos. Teach your children how to use the zoom on your digital camera – but don't forget to teach them how using their legs to move closer can. 13 Lessons to Teach Your Child About Digital Photography. There's a great article on teaching kids about digital photgraphy posted at the Digital. Kids Photography Lessons. Part of the fun with hobbies is in learning new techniques to help ... 13 Lessons to Teach Your Child About Digital Photography.
Today while sorting through some old boxes I found a photo album filled with the first ever photos that I took as a young budding photographer. I was around nine years old when I first started using our family’s film point and shoot camera and I still remember my Dad’s ‘training’ on how to use it. Basically it consisted of this advice:
Note – before I start I should say that you can probably teach a child too much about photography and ‘kill’ some of the playfulness that I think makes the images that a child can take special. My main advice would be to instill in your child the first lesson below – of experimenting and having fun:
1. Experiment

Looking over many of the shots that I took in those early days shows me that I took a lot of shots of almost exactly the same things. I approached my subjects in much the same way with every shot and as a result ended up with very similar results. Teach your child how to vary their shots in a number of these ways:
- shoot from different perspectives – up high, down low etc
- getting in close – stepping back for a wider angle shot
- moving around your subject to shoot from different sides
- experimenting with different settings (teaching them about different exposure modes)
2. Check your Backgrounds
A very simple concept that can enhance an image is to check out the background of a shot to check for clutter or distraction. Teach your children to scan the background (and the foreground) of an image quickly and to change their framing if there’s too many distractions – otherwise their shots will end up like mine used to with all kinds of objects growing out of the heads of those I was photographing.
Read more about How to Get Backgrounds Right
3. Hold the Camera Straight
The other obvious problem with many of my first images is that they rarely lined up straight. In fact after viewing my first album for a few minutes I began to feel quite dizzy! While shots that are not straight can be quite effective (they can be playful or give a more ‘candid’ feel to them) it is good to teach your children to check the framing of their shot before hitting the shutter.
4. How to Hold a Camera
It is easy to assume that everyone knows how to hold a digital camera – however while many people do it intuitively some will not – particularly children who are unfamiliar with them. In fact I’ve seen a lot of adults who could do with a lesson or two on how to hold a camera and whose images must suffer with camera shake as a result of poor technique. A quick lesson on securing your camera could help a child get clear, shake free images for years to come.
5. Get in Close
Almost all of the shots that took in my first rolls of film have my subject somewhere off into the distance of the shot. This is partly because the camera that I was using didn’t have a zoom lens – but it was partly because I didn’t understand how getting in close would help capture the detail of a subject. Teach your children how to use the zoom on your digital camera – but don’t forget to teach them how using their legs to move closer can achieve the same results!
6. Take Lots of Photos
While my Dad’s advice did save our family a lot of money at the time – with the advent of digital photography, taking lots of pictures is no longer something that is too costly (although there are costs in terms of storing them all). Taking lots of images is a great way to learn different techniques of photography. While you probably will want to encourage your children not to take 100 shots of exactly the same thing – encourage them to experiment with lots of different shots over time and as they do you’ll see their photography improve.
7. Getting the Balance Right Between Photographing People, ‘Things’ and Places
I still remember coming back from my first overseas trip as a teenager (a school trip) and showing my parents my photos. Their first comment was that I had hardly taken any shots of people. All my shots had been of buildings. While some of them were interesting – I missed one of the most important aspects of the trip – those I was traveling with. I chatted to a friend with two children recently and she told me that one of her children did the same thing with me – but the other came back from a school trip with hundreds of photos of their friends but none of the sites that they saw. I guess some children get too focused on photographing sites and some too focused upon photographing people. If you see your child doing this – perhaps reflect back to them that they think about different types of photography.
8. Find a Point of Interest
Interesting photographs have interesting things in them – they need a visual point of interest (a focal point). Teach your child to identify what this point of interest is before hitting the shutter. Once they’ve identified the point of interest they can then think about how to highlight it (by positioning themselves, using their zoom etc).
9. Rule of Thirds
A simple principle of photography that I’ve taught a number of children is the Rule of Thirds. While I’ve talked numerous times about how breaking this rule can also be a powerful effect – it is something that I’ve found really can lift a child’s images – particularly when they are photographing other people. Even if the child doesn’t completely understand to position their subject right on the intersecting third points – to teach them how to place their subject off centre can be enough.
10. Review Your Children’s Images with Them
One thing that you can do to help your children drastically improve their photography is to sit down at the computer with them after they’ve been out with their camera to go through their shots. As you scroll through them pause to affirm them with what they’ve done well and to point out things that they could do better next time to improve their results. Pay particular attention to the shots that they do well with as this will give them positive reinforcement and inspiration to keep going with their hobby.
11. Focal Lock
One important technique that children will do well to learn is how to use focal lock. While most cameras do well in auto focusing upon subjects there are times when you’ll end up with shots that are out of focus because the camera doesn’t know what the main subject is (particularly if they are placing subjects off centre with the rule of thirds). Teach your child how to press the shutter halfway down to focus and then to frame the shot while still holding it down and they’ll have a skill that they’ll use forever!
Learn how to Use Focal Lock
12. Different Modes for Different Situations
The day that i discovered my family film camera had a little dial for different ’shooting modes’ on it was a day my photography improved a little. Most digital cameras these days have the ability to switch a camera into modes like ‘portrait’, ’sports’, ‘macro’ etc. Teach your child what these modes mean and when to switch to them and you’ll be taking them a step closer to learning about how their camera works and how to learn about manual exposure modes (see the next point). Just knowing that different situations will mean you need to use different settings is an important lesson for kids to learn as it helps them to become more aware of not only their subject but things like how light, focal distance and subject movement can impact a shot.
Read our tutorial on Different Camera Modes
13. Exposure Settings
Once your child has a good grasp on the above techniques it might be time to teach them some basics of exposure (this might be one for slightly older kids). Learning about the three elements of ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed are a useful place to start your lessons and giving them an introduction to how changing these settings can impact a photo. The best way for them to learn this is by introducing them to Aperture and Shutter priority modes.
What do You Teach Your Children?
Of course deciding which of the above lessons for kids on photography to teach your child will depend upon their age and experience. Some are obviously more appropriate for some children than others. I’d be interested to hear what readers do when it comes to this topic? What have you taught your kids?With my own son (who is 16 months old) we’re obviously not up to any of these – however I am teaching him to become familiar with cameras – showing him images once they’ve been taken on the LCD, letting him look through the viewfinder and even pressing the shutter. This familiarization is really nothing more than that – but in doing so he’s becoming more comfortable with cameras – and I’ve noticed when I’m photographing him (which does happen a lot) he’s much more happy to pose for me.
by WoNG jOwO · 0
Wedding Photography Gallery

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